With the Academy Award nominations out this week, fashion designers are already jockeying to dress the stars for their big night. But rather than picking the Oscar winners, designers are asking another question: Who will be the most effective at getting viewers to buy the clothes they see on the red carpet?

隨著奧斯卡提名名單的揭曉,設(shè)計師們已經(jīng)開始為明星們在頒獎當(dāng)晚所穿服裝展開了角逐。設(shè)計師們看重的不是誰是奧斯卡大贏家,他們考慮的是另外一個問題:在促使觀眾買下紅地毯上看到的服裝上面,哪個明星最有說服力?

Among this year's nominees, the 'best seller' award is likely to go to a nominee whom few in the fashion world are discussing: Sandra Bullock. At , a Los Angeles-based Web site that links red-carpet photos to stores that sell the looks, Ms. Bullock's one-shouldered Vivienne Westwood dress at the Golden Globes ranked among the top of all red-carpet appearances this year in inspiring viewers to 'click through' to retail sites.

在今年的提名者中,“最佳推銷員”的獎項可能要屬于一個在時尚界少有人議論的奧斯卡候選人:桑德拉·布洛克(Sandra Bullock)。在網(wǎng)站上,布洛克在金球獎(Golden Globes)頒獎典禮上的單肩薇薇恩·韋斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)禮服在今年所有的紅毯亮相中位居前列,她也成為最能鼓勵觀眾從紅毯照片點擊鏈接至服裝賣場的人。總部位于洛杉磯的 網(wǎng)站將紅毯照片和銷售這些禮服的商家鏈接在一起。

One lesson: It isn't pure chic that moves clothes. 'For the most part, celebrities that drive sales aren't necessarily the ones that get nominated' for awards, says Lily Hollander, editorial director of . The 45-year-old Ms. Bullock is not high on chic lists, but her down-to-earth image mean millions of women relate to her.

一個經(jīng)驗是:推動服裝銷售的并非是單純的時髦漂亮?!霸诮^大多數(shù)情況下,帶動銷量的明星不一定是那些獲得了奧斯卡提名的演員,” 編輯部主任莉莉·霍蘭德(Lily Hollander)表示。45歲的布洛克在時尚榜單上的位置并不靠前,不過她的鄰家女形像意味著成百上千萬的女性對她有認同感。

By contrast, with her Best Actress Oscar nomination for 'An Education' this week, Carey Mulligan has dozens of fashion designers vying to lend her baubles and gowns for the Oscars. The young actress with the pixie haircut is known as a sophisticated dresser. 'Carey Mulligan will be the most watched on ,' says Hamish Bowles, Vogue's European editor at large, recalling a sparkling Prada dress the actress wore recently.

相比之下,因《成長教育》(An Education)獲得最佳女演員提名的凱瑞·穆里根(Carey Mulligan)則得到了數(shù)十名服裝設(shè)計師的青睞,他們爭相租借給她在奧斯卡上穿著的首飾和禮服。這位留著利落短發(fā)的年輕女演員在穿著方面是個眾所周知的高手。“凱瑞·穆里根將成為網(wǎng)站上最受人關(guān)注的人物,”Vogue歐洲版編輯哈米什·鮑爾斯(Hamish Bowles)說,她回想起穆里根最近穿著的一件亮閃閃的普拉達(Prada)禮服。

But despite Ms. Mulligan's fashion cred, she may not be the savviest choice for product placement. At , Ms. Mulligan is not one of the stars who moves the most viewers to buy clothes. Ms. Mulligan wasn't available to comment.

不過盡管穆里根在時尚方面有可信度,但她或許并不是植入式廣告最明智的人選。在 網(wǎng)站上,穆里根并不屬于能夠推動觀眾購買服裝的明星之列。記者未能聯(lián)系到穆里根置評。

Celebrity placement is more voodoo than science, but among this year's nominees, other Oscar sales influencers may include plus-sized Gabourey Sidibe and the classic Meryl Streep. Ms. Sidibe, the star of 'Precious,' is 'an alternate paradigm for the red carpet, but she can carry these very strong colors,' says Mr. Bowles. What's more, the plus-sized market is one of fashion's fastest growing.

有關(guān)明星植入式廣告的效用并不存在什么科學(xué)根據(jù),不過在今年的提名者中,豐滿的加伯瑞·斯迪比(Gabourey Sidibe)和典雅的梅麗爾·斯特里普(Meryl Streep)或許也能推動奧斯卡銷售?!墩鎼邸?Precious)的主演斯迪比是“紅毯上的另類范例,不過她能夠駕馭那些非常強烈的色彩,”鮑爾斯說。另外,大尺寸服裝也是時尚界成長最快的市場之一。

And Ms. Streep's maturity and demure style choices may appeal to women over 40, who spend more on fashion than other demographic groups.

而且,斯特里普成熟而端莊的時尚風(fēng)格或許對40歲以上的女性有吸引力,這些女性比其他人口統(tǒng)計群體在服裝上面的花費都要多。

Red carpets have become a primary marketing channel for fashion. The Academy Award nominees' photos will be plastered from Boise to Bombay after the March 7 awards show, which will be watched by something north of 35 million television viewers--and seen on a gazillion blogs. It's an irresistible advertising medium. In Los Angeles, designers employ VIP handlers, who work to get the designers' clothes on celebrities who might be photographed in them.

紅地毯已經(jīng)成為時尚界最主要的一條營銷渠道。奧斯卡提名者的照片在3月7日的頒獎晚會后將被張貼到從美國愛達荷州的博伊西到印度孟買的各個地方,還會出現(xiàn)在數(shù)不清的博客上面。奧斯卡還將擁有超過3,500萬的電視觀眾。這是個讓人無法抗拒的廣告平臺。在洛杉磯,設(shè)計師們聘用了專門針對貴賓的人員,他們的工作就是讓這些設(shè)計師的服裝出現(xiàn)在明星們的身上。

The fashion industry does this because it works. After Sienna Miller wore Thakoon's spring bustier jumper to the premiere of the fashion documentary 'The September Issue,' every store that bought the piece sold out, says a spokeswoman for designer Thakoon Panichgul.

時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)這么做的原因是這招確實奏效。西耶娜·米勒(Sienna Miller)在時裝紀錄片《九月刊》(The September Issue)的首映禮穿上了Thakoon的修身小禮服裙之后,每家進了這件衣服的商店都賣斷了貨,設(shè)計師塔庫恩·帕尼克歌爾(Thakoon Panichgul)的發(fā)言人表示。

Yet success, for a designer, is a delicate balance of star power and timing. After Jessica Alba presented an award at the People's Choice awards last month, her Burberry Prorsum knotted platform sandals generated the most click-throughs to retail sites of any red-carpet appearance this season on .

然而對于設(shè)計師來說,成功還是明星影響力和時機之間的一種微妙平衡。杰西卡·阿爾芭(Jessica Alba)在上個月的人民選擇獎(People's Choice)頒獎禮上露面后,她穿著的巴寶莉(Burberry)子品牌Burberry Prorsum的打結(jié)厚底涼鞋為網(wǎng)站帶來了本季所有紅毯亮相中指向零售店的最多的點擊量。

Unfortunately for Burberry, those spring-season shoes won't be available in stores for another month. So shoppers had to settle for similar looks offered on the site by Robert Clergerie and Callisto.

不過不幸的是,巴寶莉這款春季款涼鞋直到下月才會到店。因此買家們不得不退而求其次,在網(wǎng)站上購買Robert Clergerie和Callisto品牌的相似的涼鞋款式。

Nothing is too minor for mention. Stylist Mark Townsend announced that he set actress January Joness hair in a French twist for the Golden Globes, blow drying her hair 'with a round brush' and securing 'it with about 10 bobby pins.' He also named hair products and prices: Moroccanoil Treatment, $39 for 3.4 fl. oz.

沒有什么是不值一提的。造型師馬克·湯森德(Mark Townsend)宣布,他在金球獎上為女演員詹紐瑞·瓊斯(January Joness)做了一個法式發(fā)髻,先吹干她的頭發(fā),“用滾梳”梳頭發(fā),再“用大約10支發(fā)夾”固定。他還公布了自己的美發(fā)產(chǎn)品和價格:Moroccanoil護理,3.4液體盎司的價格是39美元。


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