Normally, it would be unthinkable to consume meat that’s over a few days old, but thanks to French butcher Alexandre Polmard it is actually possible to enjoy ‘vintage’ meats from cows that were butchered decades ago!
正常情況下，人們是不會(huì)考慮去吃放了幾天的生肉的，但多虧了法國肉鋪老板亞歷山大·波羅瑪，事實(shí)上要享用幾十年前從奶牛身上砍下來的“陳年”牛肉已成為可能。

Polmard offers his customers the world’s most expensive meat, aged through ‘hibernation’, a special process that his grandfather and father invented in the 1990s. Cold air is blown over the meat at speeds of 120 kilometers per hour, in a -43 C environment, making the meat theoretically last forever. It will not rot with age, and will continue to taste fresh indefinitely.
波羅瑪給顧客提供的肉舉世最貴。20世紀(jì)90年代，波羅瑪?shù)淖娓负透赣H發(fā)明了一道特殊工藝，通過“休眠”，零下43度的環(huán)境中，冷空氣以120千米的時(shí)速吹拂牛肉，這樣肉理論上可以永久保鮮，不會(huì)因歲月流逝而腐壞，當(dāng)然，也能持續(xù)保持新鮮口感。

Meat prepared through Polmard’s process obviously doesn’t come cheap. The 2000 vintage cote de boeuf (rib steak), for instance, costs about €3,000. The steep price not only covers the ‘hibernation’ process, but also the cost of raising an exclusive breed of cattle called ‘Blonde Aquitaine’.
用波羅瑪工藝保鮮的肉類價(jià)格不菲。2000年的復(fù)古肋排要價(jià)約三千歐元。這一天價(jià)不但涵蓋“休眠”工藝的成本，也包括養(yǎng)“金毛阿基坦”精品牛的成本在內(nèi)。

Polmard also talks to his animals every day, to ensure that they remain stress-free and comfortable, right down to the very end. He explained that when a cow is stressed it results in higher levels of glycogen and lactic acid, making its meat flavorless and tough. So Polmard spends millions of dollars on infrastructure to take care of his cows, and ensures that only four cows are killed every week.
波羅瑪每天都和動(dòng)物談天，確保其直至終了都遠(yuǎn)離壓力、舒適自在。他解釋道，奶牛有精神壓力的時(shí)候，會(huì)引發(fā)糖原和乳酸含量升高，肉風(fēng)味盡失、口感粗糙。所以，波羅瑪在基礎(chǔ)設(shè)施上投資數(shù)百萬元，悉心呵護(hù)奶牛，確保每周只宰殺四頭牛。

In fact, the amount of meat he produces is so small that the Polmard boucherie in Paris looks more like a vintage wine shop . There’s a long list of people who’ve put down their names months in advance to try some of the rarest, most aged meats.
事實(shí)上，肉產(chǎn)量小之又小，波羅瑪在巴黎的肉店看起來更像是家年代久遠(yuǎn)的葡萄酒店。很多人提前數(shù)月就預(yù)約，要嘗嘗這稀世罕見年代久遠(yuǎn)的肉,排隊(duì)名單長(zhǎng)之又長(zhǎng)。

Just like with wine, the different vintages that Polmard produces have different flavors and characteristics. The most exclusive and expensive cuts are reserved for a handful of Michelin-star chefs, but Polmard says he personally visits them to make sure they understand the nuances and subtleties of the meat.
和葡萄酒一樣，波羅瑪所制不同年代的牛肉風(fēng)味不同、特色各異。最精品最昂貴的那幾刀肉是給好些米其林星廚師特別保留的；但波羅瑪稱他會(huì)親自造訪，確保廚師們懂肉質(zhì)的細(xì)微差別。

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