Black shoes and a black suit work great if you’re going to a funeral, but most of the time we’re a little more colorful in our?
wardrobes.
黑皮鞋和黑西裝配極了——假如你要去參加葬禮的話。但多數(shù)時(shí)間里我們衣柜里會(huì)有更多種色彩。
How does a man wearing a navy, light-grey, or brown suit match his shoes with the suit color?
如果男士穿著海軍藍(lán)、淺灰色或是棕色的西裝,那么同樣顏色的鞋子會(huì)和衣服相配嗎?
Take a moment to get to know the chart below.
花時(shí)間看看下面這張圖片吧。
It pairs the five most common suit colors — navy, medium or mid-gray,
charcoal, brown, and black — with three different shoes to show you which colors work with which leathers.
上面有最常見(jiàn)的幾種西裝顏色——海軍藍(lán)、中灰色、炭黑色、棕色和黑色——以及三種不同的鞋子,從中你能知道哪種顏色的西服和哪種皮鞋相配。
Now, are these shoe matching rules absolute? Not entirely — but it’s a very safe guide to follow.
那么,這種配對(duì)是絕對(duì)的嗎?不一定——不過(guò)是一種非常安全的指導(dǎo)。
If you’re bucking the advice here, it should be because you’re going for a really unique look or you know the rules and make a conscious decision to ignore them!
如果你沒(méi)有遵從這些建議,或許是因?yàn)槟阆胍雌饋?lái)特立獨(dú)行或者你明知道這個(gè)規(guī)則,然后主觀作出決定無(wú)視它們!
For example, we don’t have the?
burgundy?shoes paired with a black suit. But a rocker might wear a black suit with red Converse All-Stars.?
比如,酒紅色的鞋子不可能和黑色的西裝一起穿,但一位搖滾歌手卻有可能穿一件黑色的西裝和紅色的匡威全明星鞋子。
There are going to be exceptions.
不過(guò)凡事總有例外。
But there aren’t many of them, and if you’re sticking to classic business and business-casual dress, let this chart be your guide.
但是例外不多,假如你總是穿經(jīng)典的商務(wù)或是商務(wù)休閑服裝,就參考這張表來(lái)穿吧。
Most of the time it’s not too hard. Strict business formality is easy — a charcoal gray or navy blue suit and plain black shoes.
大部分情況下這都不難。嚴(yán)肅的商務(wù)風(fēng)格很容易——炭灰色或是海軍藍(lán)的西裝配上淺白色鞋子。
But as the suits (and the business climate) become more relaxed, you get the option of wearing different colors of leather with them. That’s a?
stumblingblock for a lot of men — and the wrong color of shoes and belt can ruin even a fine suit.
不過(guò)隨著衣服(以及商務(wù)環(huán)境)變得越來(lái)越休閑,你會(huì)有機(jī)會(huì)選擇搭配不同的顏色的皮鞋。對(duì)大部分男人來(lái)說(shuō)這都是件令人頭疼的事兒——而且穿錯(cuò)了顏色的鞋子和皮帶很可能毀掉一件很好的衣服。
Here’s how most of these combinations play out in practical, day-to-day dress:
以下是這幾種組合在現(xiàn)實(shí)的日常穿著中是怎么搭配起來(lái)的:
1. Navy Blue Suits
1.海軍藍(lán)西裝
Pair with:
搭配:
Black shoes
Brown shoes
Red or burgundy shoes
黑色鞋
棕色鞋
紅色或酒紅色鞋
Navy can go comfortably with all three of the main color families of men’s leather shoes. You can probably even make a navy suit work with more
exotic?colors if you have them, although blue is generally too close to make a good contrast.
海軍藍(lán)和所有這三種主要的男士皮鞋色系搭配起來(lái)都比較適宜。你甚至還能讓海軍藍(lán)的西裝和一些更有異域風(fēng)情的顏色搭配,雖然藍(lán)色一般來(lái)說(shuō)容易和其他顏色產(chǎn)生巨大的色差。
The leather color mostly affects the formality and attitude of a navy suit. Black shoes are business dress, while brown are more relaxed, and red or burgundy give it the most playful, social feel.
皮鞋的顏色會(huì)最大程度上影響到海軍藍(lán)西裝的正式程度。商務(wù)裝穿黑色,休閑裝穿棕色,而紅色和酒紅色則會(huì)讓人感覺(jué)更隨意,更具社交性。
2. Medium and Light Grey Suits
2.中度灰或是淺灰色西裝
Pair with:
搭配:
Black shoes
Brown shoes
Red or burgundy shoes
黑色鞋
棕色鞋
紅色或酒紅色鞋
Medium gray suits are less formal than navy suits, and share a similar flexibility. You can pair them effectively with just about any color of leather.
比起海軍藍(lán)色的西裝,中灰色的西裝顯得不那么正式,并且也有同樣的彈性。它們能和幾乎所有顏色的皮鞋相配。
In the case of medium gray, black is the best option when you’re wearing a white shirt and a necktie. It’s still not proper business dress (the suit itself is too light), but it’s quite typical in offices where suits are?
mandatory?but somewhat relaxed. Brown and burgundy shoes make it more of a casual/social look, and work best when the shirt has a bit of pattern or color to it as well.
就中灰色而言,當(dāng)你穿著白色的襯衫和領(lǐng)帶時(shí)黑色就是最好的選擇。這也不是合適的商務(wù)著裝(西裝本身就太淺了),但是在那些必須穿西裝但可以相對(duì)休閑的辦公室里這樣的打扮卻非常典型?;疑途萍t色的鞋子會(huì)使它顯得更休閑更社交,而當(dāng)你穿的襯衫也有點(diǎn)這種風(fēng)格的話就最完美了。
3. Brown Suits
3.棕色西裝
Pair with:
搭配:
Brown shoes
Red or burgundy shoes
棕色鞋
紅色或酒紅色鞋
Do not pair with:
Black shoes
不要搭配:
黑色鞋
Brown’s great with most casual leather shoes. It’s generally better to have the shoe leather darker than the suit (helps keep the eye from being drawn downward), but either way can work so long as you have a clear contrast.
棕色和大多數(shù)休閑皮鞋都能很好地相配。一般來(lái)說(shuō)鞋子的顏色最好比西服的顏色更深一點(diǎn)(這樣可以防止眼睛往下面落),不過(guò)只要能有清楚的對(duì)比,兩種方式都可以起作用。
4. Charcoal Grey Suits
4.炭灰色西裝
Pair with:
搭配:
Black shoes
Burgundy shoes
黑色鞋
酒紅色鞋
Do not pair with:
Brown shoes
不要搭配:
棕色鞋
Here’s where we get to our first firm “no” on the list: don’t pair charcoal suits with brown shoes.
在這里我們看到了列表中第一個(gè)“不要”:不要把炭灰色西裝和棕色的鞋子配在一起。
Dark browns look like you’re trying for a close match and coming up short. Light browns are too informal, and draw the eye jarringly downward. Plain black works best, or a deep burgundy for a look that’s relaxed but still elegant.
深棕色會(huì)讓你顯得就像穿著短褲去參加婚禮一樣。而淺棕色又太不正式了,也會(huì)讓眼睛往下面瞟。純黑色是最好的搭配,或者是深酒紅色,看起來(lái)休閑而又優(yōu)雅。
5. Black Suits
5.黑色西裝
Pair with:
搭配:
Black shoes
黑色鞋
Do not pair with:Brown shoes
Burgundy shoes
不要搭配:棕色鞋酒
紅色鞋
Black’s not very flexible. That’s why we generally recommend charcoal gray or navy blue in its place as a first suit. If you own one, pair it with black shoes, and save the outfit for funerals and strict business dress occasions.
黑色并沒(méi)有多大的彈性。這也是為什么我們一般會(huì)推薦穿炭灰色或是海軍藍(lán)色。如果你有一件黑色的西裝,就搭配一雙黑色的鞋子吧。然后把這套衣服留給葬禮或是嚴(yán)肅的商務(wù)著裝場(chǎng)合。
Any other color of shoe is going to look too casual with black.
其他顏色的鞋子和黑色配在一起會(huì)顯得太隨意。
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