追尋失落的圓明園
A Paradise Lost—The Imperial Garden Yuanming Yuan

作者介紹:汪榮祖,西雅圖華盛頓大學(xué)歷史學(xué)博士。歷任美國弗吉尼亞州立大學(xué)教授、澳洲國立大學(xué)訪問研究員。現(xiàn)任臺灣“中央大學(xué)”人文研究中心主任、美國弗吉尼亞州立大學(xué)榮譽(yù)教授。

內(nèi)容簡介:第一部以西方語言寫就的全面介紹圓明園從緣起、興建、擴(kuò)充,到其被毀、重修等盛衰榮辱的歷史,更以珍貴照片及原創(chuàng)手繪介紹圓明園的布局、功能等。

Scenic Structures in the Original Yuanming Yuan
圓明園本園的景觀結(jié)構(gòu)

The original configuration of the imperial garden before the completion of the Sea of Blessing (Fu Hai) was square in shape. It consisted of three principal groups of man-made structures, namely, the administrative buildings, the royal residence compound, and a complex of rural scenes spreading along the central axis from south to north, in addition to numerous composite smaller enclosures scattered throughout the huge garden.
這座帝王宮苑在福海完工之前的本園布局是正方形。它由三個主要的人工建筑群所組成,即行政建筑、皇家居住區(qū)和鄉(xiāng)村景色的綜合體,沿著中軸線由南往北伸展,另外還有非常之多的小區(qū),遍布在這座巨大的宮苑之中。

The main entrance, facing south, was named the Grand Palace Gate (Da’gongmen); it was one of the garden’s eighteen major gates. On top of the gate hung a wooden tablet with three large Chinese characters, yuan ming yuan, in the style of Kangxi’s calligraphy. Centered in front of the Grand Palace Gate was a five-column-wide section of rooms used as office space for representatives from virtually all major government agencies, including the Grand Secretariat (Nei Ge), the six boards, Hanlin Academy, and the Bureau of the Clansmen (Zongren Fu). Beyond the main gate was the Inner Palace Gate, or the Gentlemen’s Entrance (Churu Xianliang Men), guarded by a pair of gilt dragons across an arch bridge over a moat. On both sides of the entrance there were rooms for visitors to wait. This was the place where the emperor reviewed the annual archery contest of his troops.
主要的入口處朝南的大宮門,是園里18個主要宮門的其中一個。在這道宮門的頂端掛著一幅木制匾額,刻有“圓明園”這三個由康熙親筆書寫的大字。在大宮門前面的中央是五楹寬的一大排房間,作為幾乎所有主要政府部門(包括內(nèi)閣、六部、翰林院、宗人府)的官員辦公的地方。越過這道宮門就是二宮門或者叫“出入賢良門”,由在拱橋上跨過護(hù)城河的一對鍍金龍守護(hù)著,在入口的兩側(cè)有供來人候旨的房間,這里也是皇帝每年校閱軍隊與比試射藝的地方。

Zhengda Guangming Dian (Main Audience Hall). Sketch by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
正大光明殿。王綽和郁欣白繪制。

The grand Main Audience Hall (Zhengda Guangming Dian), the name of which means open-mindedness and magnanimousness appropriate to a great ruler, stood at a central position inside the Inner Palace Gate. This piece of architecture was a replica of the imperial audience hall called Great Harmony Hall (Taihe Dian) in the Forbidden City. It was “well adorned exteriorly with paint and gilding, and netted with iron wire under the fretted eaves to keep the birds off”.
正大光明殿坐落在二宮門里的正中央位置,其名意謂偉大統(tǒng)治者之胸襟開闊。這部分的建筑是完全依照紫禁城里的主殿太和殿復(fù)制而成。這座主殿的外觀以油漆和鍍金來裝飾,在層層交疊的屋檐下有鐵絲織成的網(wǎng)來阻止飛鳥接近。

The hall had seven columns made of solid wood, 129 feet long and 63 feet wide, sitting on a 4-foot-high terrace of round stone pedestals, each 2 feet 9 inches in diameter. Inside, an “antithetical couplet” (duilian) written by Emperor Yongzheng himself was displayed on a pair of scrolls hanging on each side of the hall in symmetrical fashion. The building’s floors were paved with dalishi (slabs of a white marble veined in black) 2 feet square and about 3 inches thick on a brick-lime foundation ascended by three sets of stone steps. In the front there was an open courtyard with two side halls (piandian) on each side, and in the back a rock hill resembling a gigantic jade bamboo shoot in upright form. This hall was the place where the emperor met with his officials and foreign dignitaries as well as served banquets, in particular the grand banquets for such special occasions as the emperor’s birthday, and the metropolitan examinations. In general, this administrative section, with the Main Audience Hall as its principal structure, is a large enclosure surrounded by walls. Looking out from inside one could catch the pleasant views of dark-foliaged trees and flowers mixed red with purple. With the rise of the imperial garden’s political stature, this audience hall soon acquired two wings. The east wing provided office space for the grand councilors (junji), who made policy decisions on a daily basis, while the west wing was used as waiting rooms. The Qianlong Emperor designated this place the first of his Forty Views.
殿堂高129英尺(約39米),寬63英尺(約19米),有七根直徑為2.9英尺(約84厘米)的原木柱子豎立在4英尺(約1.2米)高的圓形石墩上,在殿堂內(nèi)有雍正皇帝御筆親書的一副對聯(lián)勻稱地掛在兩側(cè)。由三級石階登上石灰磚的地面,上面鋪滿約2英尺(60厘米)長、3英寸(8厘米)厚的方形大理石。主殿前面是一個開放式的庭院,兩側(cè)各有一座偏殿,而主殿的后方有一座石山像巨大的玉竹筆直豎立。這座殿堂是皇帝用來接見他的官員和外國貴賓以及擺設(shè)宴會的地方——特別是為皇帝壽辰等特別節(jié)慶而舉辦盛宴,也是進(jìn)行科舉殿試的場所。一般來說,這個行政區(qū)以院墻圍閉,形成很大一片禁區(qū),正大光明殿是這個區(qū)的最主要結(jié)構(gòu)。從里面看出去,可以欣賞到林陰如蓋和花卉霏紅疊紫等宜人景色。隨著這座帝王宮苑的政治地位上升,這座主殿堂后來也需要增加兩翼。東翼是給軍機(jī)大臣每天處理政事的辦公地方,而西翼就用作候旨的廂房。在乾隆皇帝的四十景里,這是他命名的第一處景觀。

Jiuzhou Qingyan showing Feng Sanwusi Dian (Honoring Three Selflessnesses Court) in the lower center. Plan by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
“九州清晏”,奉三無私殿位于圖中下方。王綽和郁欣白繪制。


To the east of the Main Audience Hall was the Diligent Court, or the Royal Office Room (Qinzheng Dian). It contained a large compound of halls, with the Baohe and Taihe Courts in the middle sandwiched by the Flush Spring Chamber (Fuchun Lou) in the back and the Fragrant Azure Grove (Fangbi Cong) in the front. This court was the place in which the Qing emperors summoned officials, read memorials, or ate simple meals; comparable with the Qianqing Palace in the Forbidden City. A large screen behind the throne in the main office room showed two big Chinese characters, wu yi, meaning not to indulge in pleasure. This place provided the Qing emperors from Yongzheng onward with the administrative space to conduct state affairs. Qianlong designated it as the scene of the “Diligent and Talented Government” (Qinzheng Qinxian).
往正大光明殿的東邊走去,就是勤政殿,這是由許多殿堂組成的一個大庭院,富春樓在后面,芳碧叢在前面,中間夾著保和殿與太和正殿三楹。勤政殿是清代皇帝接見臣工、審閱奏章和簡單用膳的地方,作用跟紫禁城里的乾清宮一樣。在這個主要聽政室內(nèi)龍座后面的大屏風(fēng)上,寫了“無逸”兩個大字,意思是勉勵不要縱情逸樂。自雍正之后,這個地方就成為清朝皇帝用來處理國家大事的聽政場所,乾隆給這個景點命名為“勤政親賢”。

Behind this administrative section across the Front Lake (Qian Hu) was the royal residential area called Nine Continents, consisting of nine islets, connected by bridges and encircling the 200-square foot Rear Lake (Hou Hu).17 The so-called Nine Continents, ostensibly from the Confucian Book of History, refer to the known world in ancient China. The Yongzheng Emperor, who named this area, wanted to signify his universal empire surrounded by the seas and to symbolize “all under heaven” (tianxia) under peace and prosperity. I contest that neither Yongzheng nor Qianlong ever considered the miniature Nine Continents to be an example of the “l(fā)ast radiance of the setting sun” (luori yuhui) in the history of the imperial garden construction. I think that it is a misunderstanding for Wang Yi to assert that creating the immense universe in miniature unknowingly displayed the loss of a broad intellectual vista and a sign of the decline of the imperial grandeur. It is a remarkable art to “create a world in a pot.” Rather than losing a broad intellectual vista, such a design implies exactly the majestic worldview the imperial ruler entertained. It is in effect a vital aesthetic element in the Chinese garden art, which allows a small man-made structure to symbolize the immense nature, not just a part of the earth but also a part of the universe.
在這個聽政場所的后面越過前湖,就是皇帝寢宮所在的“九州”,由九個小島組成,圍繞著200平方英尺(約19平方米)大的后湖,以橋連接。這個所謂的“九州”,明顯出自儒家的《尚書》,指古代中國所了解的世界。雍正皇帝給這個地方命名為“九州”,是希望表示整個帝國是在四海之內(nèi),并象征天下和平與繁榮。我不認(rèn)為雍正或乾隆以“九州清晏”作為“九州”的縮影是皇家宮苑的“落日余暉”。王毅誤以為將無限的空間壓縮在一隅是要把“芥子納須彌”,象征帝王宏偉氣象的喪失。其實,創(chuàng)造“壺中天地”乃是非凡的藝術(shù)。這種設(shè)計不僅不會喪失宏偉的觀瞻,正好符合帝王的遠(yuǎn)大世界觀,也是中國園林藝術(shù)里最重要的美學(xué)內(nèi)涵,讓小小的人工建筑去表現(xiàn)無邊際的大自然,不僅是天地的一部分,更是宇宙的一部分。

As a matter of fact, most classical Chinese gardens are enclosed within a limited area but with the clear intention of creating a sense of infinite space. The creation of spaciousness is the essence of garden art. Condensation that produces the effect of making the small look like the spacious is no doubt a refined technique. And the Nine Continents in the Yuanming Yuan are precisely the grand center of this magnificent imperial garden symbolizing the universal Chinese world. It is surely through symbolism that the feeling of grandness rather than smallness communicated.
事實上,雖然許多經(jīng)典的中國園林是劃定有限的范圍,但都有清晰的意圖去創(chuàng)造無限空間的感覺。塑造寬敞空間的意象是園林藝術(shù)的基本精髓。壓縮的效果若能從小見大,因近及遠(yuǎn),乃是一種精巧的手藝。在圓明園里的“九州”恰好是這座雄偉的帝王宮苑之重要中心,象征著完整的中國世界,這種雄偉而非狹小的感覺正是經(jīng)由象征主義傳達(dá)出來的。

The islet on the north-south axis in the Nine Continents accommo-dated three architectural units in a row from north to south, namely, the seven-column-wide Nine Continents in Peace Hall (Jiuzhou Qingyan), the Honoring Three Selflessnesses Court (Feng Sanwusi Dian), and the five-column-wide Yuanming Yuan court facing the Front Lake. The row of three courts laid on the central axis with the Grand Palace Gate. On the east side of these courts stood Family of Spring Between Heaven and Earth (Tiandi Yijiachun) and the Benevolence Receiving Hall (Cheng’en Tang). The latter hall housed apartments for imperial ladies to live. On the west side of these three courts was the eminent Clear Sunshine Belvedere (Qinghui Ge) in which, on its northern wall, the map of the Yuanming Yuan was hung between 1737 and 1860. Sandwiched between two small lakes, the emperor’s own bedroom was also located in this vast compound, which Qianlong designated as the Nine Continents in Peace (Jiuzhou Qingyan). This designation seems to suggest that the emperor wished to survey “all under heaven” in microcosm.
在“九州”南北軸線上的島嶼,容納了三座由北向南排列的建筑群,分別是七楹寬的“九州清晏”、奉三無私殿和五楹寬的圓明園殿,面向前湖。這三座宮殿排列在大宮門的中軸線上。在這三大宮殿的東邊矗立著“天地一家春”和“承恩堂”。承恩堂是后宮嬪妃的住所;在三大殿的西邊是有名的清輝閣,在1737年到1860年之間,圓明園四十景的絹本彩繪就是掛在這里的北壁上?;实鄣膶媽m夾在兩個小湖的中間,也位于這個巨大的院落里,乾隆名之為“九州清晏”。從這個命名看得出乾隆皇帝希望在小宇宙里一窺天下。

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宏觀上呈現(xiàn)圓明園布局、擴(kuò)建、焚毀、修復(fù)的漫長變遷,亦于細(xì)節(jié)處勾勒園林建筑、生活起居與日常運行的點滴,回溯“萬園之園”曾經(jīng)的苦難與輝煌。

《追尋失落的圓明園》

汪榮祖(著) 鐘志恒(譯)

外語教學(xué)與研究出版社

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