追尋失落的圓明園
A Paradise Lost—The Imperial Garden Yuanming Yuan
作者介紹:汪榮祖,西雅圖華盛頓大學(xué)歷史學(xué)博士。歷任美國(guó)弗吉尼亞州立大學(xué)教授、澳洲國(guó)立大學(xué)訪問(wèn)研究員?,F(xiàn)任臺(tái)灣“中央大學(xué)”人文研究中心主任、美國(guó)弗吉尼亞州立大學(xué)榮譽(yù)教授。
內(nèi)容簡(jiǎn)介:第一部以西方語(yǔ)言寫(xiě)就的全面介紹圓明園從緣起、興建、擴(kuò)充,到其被毀、重修等盛衰榮辱的歷史,更以珍貴照片及原創(chuàng)手繪介紹圓明園的布局、功能等。
Chapter 2 DISPOSITION
第二章 圓明園的布局
The Yuanming Yuan imperial garden consisted of the most magnifi-cent architectural works the Qing Empire ever created. It represents a glory in the Chinese cultural tradition and the
pinnacle of Chinese garden arts.
圓明園由非常壯麗的建筑工程所組成,是清朝所創(chuàng)造的帝王御園。它代表了中國(guó)文化傳統(tǒng)的最高成就以及中國(guó)園林藝術(shù)的巔峰。
The site on which the Yuanming Yuan was built is a plain rich in fresh water at the foot of the Jade Spring Hills near present-day Haidian, northwest of Beijing. The water from the Jade Spring has been described as cool and clear, to be admired as “pearls under moonlight” (mingyue yeying qingguang yuan). The plentiful spring accounts for the abundant groundwater in Haidian and its neighborhood. In fact, “dian” means the place where water runs together. Moreover, the
terrain allowed a
gigantic garden to achieve its maximum aesthetic effects. As the great modern Chinese architect Liang Sicheng summarizes, the Yuanming Yuan was essentially a design of
hillocks?and lakes with buildings, courts, chambers, pavilions,
arbors, and other structures in between. Even though symmetry and balance were stressed, Liang goes on, greater emphasis was placed on variations and liveliness in accordance with
topography to the extent of being unconventional. Although the garden, for Liang’s critical eyes, perhaps contained too many man-made structures, which
jeopardized the beauty of the landscape, he has no doubt about its lively creativity.
營(yíng)造圓明園的地點(diǎn)是在玉泉山山腳下有豐沛活水的平原上,靠近今天北京西北邊的海淀區(qū)。來(lái)自玉泉的水被形容為清涼干凈,有云:“明月夜映清光圓”,即喻為“月光下的珍珠”。豐沛的泉水使得海淀和鄰近的地區(qū)地下水充足。事實(shí)上,“淀”的意思就是“會(huì)聚水的地方”。更何況,這里的地形可以讓一座壯觀的宮苑把美學(xué)的效果發(fā)揮到登峰造極。非常出色的現(xiàn)代中國(guó)建筑師梁思成曾評(píng)論說(shuō),圓明園會(huì)聚山丘湖泊,結(jié)合殿堂、亭臺(tái)樓閣和其他建筑結(jié)構(gòu)的設(shè)計(jì)精華。雖然圓明園注重對(duì)稱(chēng)和平衡,但梁氏進(jìn)一步說(shuō),圓明園的設(shè)計(jì)更能依照地形來(lái)強(qiáng)調(diào)變化,并以活潑的造型來(lái)發(fā)揮獨(dú)樹(shù)一幟的風(fēng)格。雖然在梁氏的慧眼里,圓明園也許因過(guò)多的人工雕琢而破壞了美麗的形勝,但其具有生命的創(chuàng)意仍然是毋庸置疑的。
Overview of the original Yuanming Yuan showing twenty-nine man-made structures or scenes mentioned in the book. Plan by Sylvia Lu Wong with reference to the map in YMYJ 1 between pp. 122–123 and to He Chongyi, Zeng Zhaofen’s work in YMYJ 1:81–92.
圓明園原貌總覽,標(biāo)示出書(shū)中提到的29處人工建筑或景點(diǎn)。陸善儀參考《圓明園》第1期(1981)122—123頁(yè)中的地圖以及何重義、曾昭奮繪制的地圖(載《圓明園》第1期,81—92頁(yè))等資料繪制而成。
A more recent scholar has called the Yuanming Yuan “the garden of ten-thousand gardens” (wanyuan zhi yuan) in reference to its ingenious and judicious disposition on a large lake and near the tall West Hills in the neighborhood. Indeed, due to the excellent location, pleasant country homes appeared here as early as the Yuan Dynasty in the thirteenth century. By the sixteenth century, natural beauty made this region so attractive that the Marquis Li Wei of the Ming was inspired to construct the well-known Clear Flowery Garden (Qinghua Yuan), which had claims to be “the leading garden in the region” (jingguo diyi mingyuan). Shortly afterward, the distinguished calligrapher Mi Wanzhong built the equally famous Ladle Garden (Shao Yuan) in this area. Both celebrated gardens, according to the Peking University scholar Hou Renzhi, deteriorated during the transition from the Ming to the Qing.
最近更有學(xué)者有鑒于圓明園在廣大湖區(qū)和高聳的西山之麓有巧奪天工的布局,而稱(chēng)之為“萬(wàn)園之園”。其實(shí)由于周遭環(huán)境非常之好,早在13世紀(jì)元朝的時(shí)候就已經(jīng)有一些優(yōu)美的莊園在這里出現(xiàn)。到了16世紀(jì),天然美景讓這個(gè)地區(qū)十分具有吸引力,明代的武清侯李偉就因此得到靈感建造了十分著名的清華園,被喻為“京國(guó)第一名園”。不久之后,著名書(shū)法家米萬(wàn)鐘也在這里建造同負(fù)盛名的勺園,取“海淀一勺”之意。根據(jù)北京大學(xué)教授侯仁之的說(shuō)法,這兩座享有盛譽(yù)的園林于明清易代之際遭遇到荒廢的命運(yùn)。
The Qing rulers constructed gardens in the Haidian region all over again. As the three available maps show, the Yuanming Yuan contained vast lakes connected by a network of canals and winding waterways. From a bird’s eye view, all of the structures in the garden appear to have been situated on islets or spits of land surrounded by artificial hills,
terraces, hollow rocks, and blooming trees and
shrubs. The specially named “scenes” (jing) comprised a series of independent and yet
cohesive smaller gardens. And this huge park, as a Briton observed, “contained a vast variety of elegant little buildings”.
清代的統(tǒng)治者在海淀又新建許多宮苑。根據(jù)三張可用的地圖顯示,圓明園里的巨大湖泊是由運(yùn)河網(wǎng)絡(luò)和蜿蜒的水道所連接起來(lái)的。從鳥(niǎo)瞰的角度來(lái)看,所有在圓明園內(nèi)的建筑都坐落在小島上或是被假山、臺(tái)榭、花石、樹(shù)叢和灌木包圍起來(lái)的單獨(dú)區(qū)域中。那些被特別命名的“景”是由一組既獨(dú)立又聚在一起的小庭園所構(gòu)成。根據(jù)當(dāng)時(shí)英國(guó)人對(duì)這座巨大園林的觀察,它“包含一大群各式各樣優(yōu)雅精致的小建筑”。
In 1737, the second year of his reign, Qianlong instructed the distinguished court artists Castiglione, Tang Dai, Sun You, Shen Yuan, Zhang Wanbang, and Ding Guanpeng to draw a silk map of the Yuanming Yuan. Once completed, it was hung on the north wall of the Clear Sunshine Belvedere (Qinghui Ge). The
belvedere was situated on the west side of the royal living room at the center of the Nine Continents. Its structure, a simple rectangle with elaborate motifs and decorations carved on the posts and beams by carpenters, fit beautifully in the landscape and among other surrounding structures. Noticeably, it had a large overhang to protect the inhabitants from foul weather and was carefully painted to protect it from decay. The right angles and axial symmetry reflected the
sublime order. This was the place where the emperor and his companions enjoyed the quiet pleasures of composing poems, drawing pictures, and admiring the landscape.
在1737年,也就是乾隆在位的第二年,他傳旨要著名的宮廷御用畫(huà)家郎世寧、唐岱、孫佑、沈源、張萬(wàn)邦、丁觀鵬把圓明園恭繪在絹本上,完成之后就掛在清輝閣的北壁上。清輝閣在“九州”中央的皇帝寢宮的西側(cè)。它的建筑樣式是單純的長(zhǎng)方形,配上工匠在梁柱上雕刻的精致的圖形和裝潢,與周?chē)娘L(fēng)景和建筑十分相宜。此閣有一個(gè)非常顯著的懸挑部分,既讓里面的人不受惡劣天氣的影響,又有細(xì)致的涂漆以保護(hù)它不易腐朽。它的直角和軸心對(duì)稱(chēng)又顯示出莊嚴(yán)的式樣。這里是皇帝和他的侍臣作詩(shī)、繪畫(huà)和欣賞風(fēng)景等雅興之用的去處。
The famous Forty (Best) Views (sishi jing) of the Yuanming Yuan were completed and designated in 1744, of which twelve views, or scenes, were constructed after Qianlong became emperor in 1736. Even though Yongzheng had completed so many of the forty views, Qianlong continued to
refurbish all the views extensively. The urbane Qianlong gave every one of the Forty Views a cultured name with an explanatory poem (Yuanming Yuan Sishijing Tuyong 1985). The emperor’s practice was quite in line with what a refined scholar did for his private garden, that is, to use an elegant name and poetic theme to make manifest a pictorial image of the uniquely created scene. Moreover, the proud Qianlong commissioned the court artists Shen Yuan and Tang Dai and the calligrapher Wang Youdun to produce a two-volume silk atlas, 2.6 feet high and 2.35 feet wide, to convey impressionistic images of all forty scenes.
著名的圓明園四十景是于1744年完成和命名的,其中有十二景是乾隆于1736年登基之后才建造出來(lái)的。雖然雍正完成四十景當(dāng)中的大部分,但乾隆繼續(xù)大肆翻修所有名景。溫文爾雅的乾隆對(duì)四十景中的每一景均給予一個(gè)講究的名稱(chēng),并有一首題詠的詩(shī)作,后來(lái)輯成《圓明園四十景圖詠》。與文人雅士們?cè)谄渌饺藞@子中所為一樣,乾隆皇帝也為他的宮苑景點(diǎn)選取優(yōu)雅的名字和富有詩(shī)意的主題,來(lái)呈現(xiàn)獨(dú)創(chuàng)景物如畫(huà)般的形象。而且,這位自負(fù)的皇帝授命宮廷御用畫(huà)家沈源和唐岱以及書(shū)法家汪由敦繪制兩冊(cè)長(zhǎng)2.6英尺(約79厘米)、寬2.35英尺(約72厘米)的絹本彩繪,以呈現(xiàn)出所有四十景之令人嘆為觀止的風(fēng)貌。
This set of pictures and poems was taken away by the French during the war of 1860, and it subsequently found a home in the Bibliotheque Nationale in Paris. The French gave the Chinese a duplicate color set of the atlas in 1983. The woodcut version of the same atlas signed by Sun Hu and Shen Yuan was published in the 1920s .
這套題詩(shī)彩繪被法國(guó)人在1860年的第二次鴉片戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)中掠走,隨后被發(fā)現(xiàn)收藏在法國(guó)巴黎的國(guó)家國(guó)書(shū)館里。法國(guó)在1983年向中方贈(zèng)送一套復(fù)制的彩色原圖仿樣。至于由孫祜和沈源簽章的同一個(gè)絹本彩繪的木刻版,則早在20世紀(jì)20年代就印制出版了。
Different parts of the garden were reached by various roads that deliberately made “various turnings and windings”. There was perhaps a geomantic element in it. Perhaps the evil spirits, which would travel in a straight line, would be diverted by a winding course. But turnings and windings also were essential for creating surprises. A narrow,
tortuous, and dark mountain road would seem to guide viewers into a dead end, but before long a broad space would open to them. Suddenly they would be surprised by a view of elegant trees, blue sky, white cloud, flying birds, beautiful flowers, and a stream of water escaping down from higher ground into a pool. At that moment, they might even enjoy the clean and soft winds blowing from distant hills. Roads thus facilitated visitors’ pleasure of admiring successively unfolding views from spot to spot. The element of surprise endorsed the art of mixing concealment (cang) and revelation (lu). The European buildings at the northern end of the Eternal Spring Garden would seem to be hidden from the Chinese architectural structures by walls and hills, with only tall roofs visible from distance. But concealment was not used simply to communicate that “nothing Western could mar the harmony of the main garden”; it was used to create surprises as well.
圓明園內(nèi)的各個(gè)景點(diǎn)均可經(jīng)由變化多端的路徑抵達(dá),這些路徑刻意鋪成多變的拐彎和蜿蜒狀,可能有風(fēng)水的因素在里面——大概是認(rèn)為邪靈只能直線走動(dòng),以至于會(huì)被蜿蜒的走道所阻擋。不過(guò),拐彎和蜿蜒也是產(chǎn)生驚喜的要素。一條狹窄、曲折和幽暗的山路,看來(lái)會(huì)把游人帶向盡頭,但不久卻會(huì)有一個(gè)豁然開(kāi)朗的空間迎接他們;突然之間,他們會(huì)被雅潔的樹(shù)叢、藍(lán)天白云、飛禽、奇花異草和從高地涌出流水注入池塘等景象帶來(lái)驚喜;頃刻之間,他們甚至可感受到遠(yuǎn)山吹來(lái)清柔的風(fēng)。因此,曲折的路徑可提升游人的興致,去欣賞從一個(gè)點(diǎn)到另一個(gè)點(diǎn)連續(xù)呈現(xiàn)的景觀。這種令人驚喜的因素闡釋了“藏”跟“露”結(jié)合的藝術(shù)。在長(zhǎng)春園北端的歐式建筑看上去像被墻垣和山丘藏于一角,在中式建筑群遮掩下,只有從遠(yuǎn)處才看得見(jiàn)高高的屋頂。但“藏”不是簡(jiǎn)單地用來(lái)傳達(dá)“西式建筑無(wú)以破壞這個(gè)重要園林的和諧”,它也是用來(lái)制造驚喜的效果。
Unlike the technique of concealment used to completely hide elements in prose or in a poem, concealment in the garden means to bring forth a reserved and implicit expression, thus unfolding scenes that cannot be viewed in a single glance.The British took note of the effect of intricacy and concealment when they visited the Yuanming Yuan at the end of the eighteenth century. “At Yuen-min-yuen (Yuanming Yuan),” it is said, “a flight wall was made to convey the idea of a magnificent building, when seen at a certain distance through the branches of a thicket”.
不同于散文或詩(shī)詞里使用完全隱藏的技巧,“藏”的意義在園林里是要帶出一個(gè)由隱至顯、既保留又含蓄的表現(xiàn),因此展開(kāi)的景觀不能一眼就看到底。一個(gè)英國(guó)人在18世紀(jì)末參觀過(guò)圓明園之后,就曾經(jīng)記錄下“藏”的效果,說(shuō)是“在圓明園里的飛檐是要表現(xiàn)出建筑的雄偉印象,特別是從遠(yuǎn)處的樹(shù)叢間窺看”。
In addition to roads, a network of canals linked to almost every corner of the garden served the same purpose of circulation. Numerous barges and boats traveled in the garden. The
successive Qing emperors all preferred smooth boat traveling. To facilitate this service, the Yuanming Yuan employed an increasing number of sailors, boathouse keepers, and boat repairmen. Since all these people lived and worked in the garden, they formed the garden’s “boat household” (chuanhu), one of many households in the service of the emperor and the royal family.
除了路徑之外,連接這座園林幾乎每一個(gè)角落的運(yùn)河網(wǎng)絡(luò),在動(dòng)線上也起了相同的效果。有非常之多的游船和水艇在園里穿梭。歷代清帝都喜愛(ài)泛舟水上游園。為了提高船隊(duì)的運(yùn)作,圓明園雇用船工、船庫(kù)管理員和船只維修員的數(shù)目日漸增加。他們?cè)趫@里居住和工作之后,就成了園林里的船戶,成為侍候皇帝和皇家的眾多侍從的一部分。
編輯推薦:
宏觀上呈現(xiàn)圓明園布局、擴(kuò)建、焚毀、修復(fù)的漫長(zhǎng)變遷,亦于細(xì)節(jié)處勾勒?qǐng)@林建筑、生活起居與日常運(yùn)行的點(diǎn)滴,回溯“萬(wàn)園之園”曾經(jīng)的苦難與輝煌。
《追尋失落的圓明園》
汪榮祖(著) 鐘志恒(譯)
外語(yǔ)教學(xué)與研究出版社
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