Madam Sixty Ate餐廳的兔肉闊面

For those looking for a cozy and slightly more upscale lunch venue in Hong Kong's Wan Chai district that's not, say, The Pawn, there's a new contender on the block (the same block, actually): Madam Sixty Ate, which opened last week in the J Senses building.
想在香港灣仔區(qū)找一個(gè)舒適又略微高檔一點(diǎn)的地方吃午餐，但是卻不想去The Pawn的話，那么在這個(gè)街區(qū)（的確就是在同一個(gè)街區(qū)）如今有了一個(gè)新去處──Madam Sixty Ate。這家餐廳于6月底開(kāi)張，地點(diǎn)在J Senses大廈。

For those looking for a cozy and slightly more upscale lunch venue in Hong Kong's Wan Chai district that's not, say, The Pawn, there's a new contender on the block (the same block, actually): Madam Sixty Ate, which opened last week in the J Senses building.
該餐廳的設(shè)計(jì)模仿了具有某些法國(guó)格調(diào)的高雅的女性起居室的風(fēng)格──Madam Sixty Ate是一位虛構(gòu)的女士──到處都呈現(xiàn)著舒適的家居氣息：從開(kāi)放式廚房到印著小鳥(niǎo)圖案的壁紙、杯墊上可愛(ài)的動(dòng)物素描。免費(fèi)贈(zèng)送的現(xiàn)烤面包也強(qiáng)化了這種氛圍，面包上抹的是熏黃油，也比普通黃油感覺(jué)更為親切，只是面包烤得略欠火候。

So it was a bit of a disappointment to flip to the set-lunch menu and discover only one option for each course. The two-course option is fairly priced at 148 Hong Kong dollars (US$19) and the three-course at HK$178, but the lack of choice inevitably made us reach for the pricier a la carte menu to round out our meal. Also disappointing: Coffee and tea aren't included with the set lunch.
翻開(kāi)午餐套餐菜單，發(fā)現(xiàn)每種套餐都只有一種選擇之后，你也許會(huì)略感失望。兩道菜的套餐價(jià)格為148港幣（約19美元），三道菜套餐的價(jià)格是178港幣，算是比較公道的。但是因?yàn)槿鄙龠x擇，我們不得不拿過(guò)單點(diǎn)菜單來(lái)加點(diǎn)其他菜。令人失望的地方還有：咖啡和茶水不包括在套餐價(jià)格之內(nèi)。

It's hard to pin down the restaurant's overarching theme (beyond the whimsical story of this Madam), as the menu is chockablock with flavors from all over─French, Italian, British, to name a few. We were later told that the emphasis is on the freshness of the ingredients, with everything made in the kitchen as much as possible.
很難說(shuō)清楚這家餐廳的根本主題是什么（除了有關(guān)那位女士的離奇故事之外），因?yàn)椴藛紊系牟似纺依怂酗L(fēng)味──法式、意式、英式，等等。后來(lái)，我們得知，這家餐廳強(qiáng)調(diào)的是新鮮的用料，所有材料都盡量自己在廚房里烹制而成。

A simple appetizer, ceviche, was overcomplicated. The sight of foam was a red flag that the dish may have strayed too far from the simplicity of this Peruvian staple. The fish, usually thinly sliced, came dry and thick, overpowered by the citrus sauce and foam. At HK$95 for five small pieces of fish, we regretted taking the rare chance to try ceviche instead of going with the more commonly available pork belly, though the pork had been highly recommended to us by others.
橙汁腌魚(yú)這一道簡(jiǎn)單的開(kāi)胃菜做得太過(guò)復(fù)雜。一看盤(pán)中的醬糊就知道：烹制流程大大偏離了這道秘魯菜簡(jiǎn)單隨意的原則。魚(yú)片照道理該切得很薄的，但我們盤(pán)中的魚(yú)片卻是厚厚的干巴巴的，而且在橙汁和醬糊里浸泡得過(guò)久。標(biāo)價(jià)95港幣，端上來(lái)卻只有很小的五片魚(yú)。我們很后悔，當(dāng)初不應(yīng)該為了品嘗難得的橙汁腌魚(yú)，而沒(méi)有選擇常見(jiàn)的五花肉片，五花肉片可是有人向我們強(qiáng)烈推薦過(guò)的。

The mains fared much better. The chicken leg confit, part of the lunch set, was tender and deliciously infused with bacon, while the accompanying roesti (a sort of hash brown) had the comforting texture reminiscent of a bubble and squeak.
主菜要好得多。午餐套餐中的油封雞腿細(xì)嫩可口，還有些許培根的香味。和雞腿一起上桌的瑞士土豆餅口感細(xì)膩，不禁讓人想起了傳統(tǒng)的英國(guó)菜“卷心菜煎土豆”。

From the a la carte menu, the rabbit with papardelle (HK$180) impressed, not least because it's rare to find a rabbit dish not drenched in a heavy tomato-based sauce. This one was braised and served with a refreshing lemon foam and green-olive sauce, perfect for a hearty but not overindulgent lunch. The only complaint was that the papardelle was undercooked in parts.
單點(diǎn)菜單上的兔肉闊面（180港幣）讓人垂涎欲滴，要知道一般餐廳的兔肉通常都是泡在濃稠的番茄醬里的，這里則是將兔肉燉熟之后，加入了美味爽口的檸檬醬糊和綠橄欖沙司。這道菜做午餐，營(yíng)養(yǎng)豐盛又不至于太過(guò)奢侈。唯一的缺憾就是闊面有的地方?jīng)]有熟透。

Dessert, included in the set lunch, was a sumptuous blood-orange crème brulee with sorbet and an anis macaroon. It was closer to custard in texture but not too heavy, thanks to the citrus flavor.
午餐套餐中包括了甜點(diǎn)，是華麗麗的血橙焦糖布丁配果汁冰糕和茴香蛋白杏仁餅干。焦糖布丁在口感上與牛奶蛋凍很接近，但沒(méi)有牛奶蛋凍的味道那么濃烈，這是因?yàn)槠渲屑尤肓烁涕傧憔?/div>

Lunch for two came in at over HK$500, and that included a 50% discount during the soft opening week, which, we weren't told, applied only to the a la carte menu. No doubt Madam Sixty Ate will be the new go-to spot for business lunches in Wan Chai, where there's a dearth of such venues. But try as Madam might to make you feel at home and welcome, the price tag on her hospitality may make you wince.
兩個(gè)人的午餐花了500港幣，還是算上了試營(yíng)業(yè)第一周推出半價(jià)優(yōu)惠之后的價(jià)格。后來(lái)得知，優(yōu)惠活動(dòng)只針對(duì)單點(diǎn)的菜肴。毫無(wú)疑問(wèn)，Madam Sixty Ate將成為灣仔地區(qū)上班族解決午餐問(wèn)題的新去處，這里很缺這樣的餐館。但是盡管這家餐館努力營(yíng)造一種賓至如歸的感覺(jué)，其熱情好客背后的高價(jià)格讓卻令人敬而遠(yuǎn)之。