Su Embroidery

蘇繡

With a history of more than 3,000 years, Su embroidery is the general name for embroidery products in areas around Suzhou, Jiangsu Province. The craft, which dates back to the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280), became a sideline of people in the Suzhou area during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Well known for its smoothness and delicateness, Su embroidery won Suzhou the title City of Embroidery in the Qing Dynasty. In the mid and late Qing, Su embroidery experienced further developments involving works of double-sided embroidering. There were 65 embroidery stores in Suzhou City. During the Republic of China period (1912-1949), the Su embroidery industry was in decline due to frequent wars and it was restored and regenerated after the founding of new China. In 1950, the central government set up research centers for Su embroidery and launched training courses for the study of embroidery. Weaving methods have climbed from 18 to the present 40.

蘇繡是以江蘇蘇州為中心的刺繡產(chǎn)品的總稱。蘇州刺繡至今已有2000余年的歷史,早在三國(guó)時(shí)期(公元220~280年)就有了關(guān)于蘇繡制作的記載。此后經(jīng)過歷代的不斷發(fā)展完善,到明代(1368~1644年)時(shí),蘇繡已成為蘇州地區(qū)一項(xiàng)普遍的群眾性副業(yè)產(chǎn)品,形成了"家家養(yǎng)蠶,戶戶刺繡"的局面。清代(公元1644~1911年)的蘇繡以“精細(xì)雅潔”而聞名,當(dāng)時(shí)的蘇州更有了“繡市”的譽(yù)稱。清代中后期,蘇繡在繡制技術(shù)上有了進(jìn)一步發(fā)展,新出現(xiàn)了精美的“雙面繡”,僅蘇州一地專門經(jīng)營(yíng)刺繡的商家就有65家之多。民國(guó)時(shí)期(公元1912~1949年),由于常年戰(zhàn)亂,蘇繡業(yè)曾一度衰落。新中國(guó)成立后,蘇繡得到進(jìn)一步的恢復(fù)和發(fā)展。1950年后,國(guó)家專門設(shè)立了蘇繡研究所,并開辦刺繡訓(xùn)練班。蘇繡的針法由原來的18種發(fā)展到今天的40余種。

Su embroidery features a strong, folk flavor and its weaving techniques are characterized by the following: the product surface must be flat, the rim must be neat, the needle must be thin, the lines must be dense, the color must be harmonious and bright and the picture must be even. Su embroidery products fall into three major categories: costumes, decorations for halls and crafts for daily use, which integrate decorative and practical values. Double-sided embroidery is an excellent representative of Su embroidery.

蘇繡具有圖案秀麗、構(gòu)思巧妙、繡工細(xì)致、針法活潑、色彩清雅的獨(dú)特風(fēng)格,地方特色濃郁。繡技具有“平、齊、細(xì)、密、和、光、順、勻”的特點(diǎn)。“平”指繡面平展;“齊”指圖案邊緣齊整;“細(xì)”指用針細(xì)巧,繡線精細(xì);“密”指線條排列緊湊,不露針跡;“和”指設(shè)色適宜;“光”指光彩奪目,色澤鮮明;“順”指絲理圓轉(zhuǎn)自如;“勻”指線條精細(xì)均勻,疏密一致。在種類上,蘇繡作品主要可分為零剪、戲衣、掛屏三大類,裝飾性與實(shí)用性兼?zhèn)?。其中以“雙面繡”作品最為精美。