曹雪芹生于南京江寧織造府,自小耳濡目染,對織造、服飾等有諸多了解,因此《紅樓夢》中才得以呈現(xiàn)精美絕倫的服飾描寫。小說中的服飾,不僅是文學(xué)的需要,還是歷史的寫照,同時體現(xiàn)了任人物的內(nèi)心情感、社會地位、性格特征等諸多方面。但多樣復(fù)雜的描寫也加大了翻譯的難度,本文將比較楊憲益和霍克斯版本關(guān)于王熙鳳服飾的描寫,以小窺大。

例子: 這個人打扮與眾姊妹不同,彩繡輝煌,恍如神妃仙子。頭上帶著金絲八寶攢珠簪,綰著朝陽五鳳掛珠釵,項上戴著赤金盤螭瓔珞圈,裙邊系著豆綠宮絳雙衡比目玫瑰佩,身上穿著縷金百蝶穿花大紅洋緞窄褃襖,外罩五彩緙絲石青銀鼠褂,下著翡翠撒花洋縐裙。

楊譯:Unlike the girls, she was richly dressed and resplendent as a fairy.

Her gold-filigree tiara was set with jewels and pearls. Her hair-clasps, in the form of five phoenixes facing the sun, had pendants of pearls. Her necklet, of red gold, was in the form of a coiled dragon studded with gems. She had double red jade pendants with pea-green tassels attached to her skirt.

Her close-fitting red satin?jacket was embroidered with gold butterflies and flowers. Her turquoise cape, lined with white squirrel, was inset with designs in coloured silk. Herskirt of kingfisher-blue crepe was patterned with flowers.

霍譯:She was dressed quite differently from the others present, gleaming like some fairy princess with sparkling jewels and gay embroideries.

Her chignon was enclosed in a circlet of gold filigree and clustered pearls. It was fastened with a pin embellished with flying phoenixes, from whose beaks pearls were suspended on tiny chains.

Her necklet was of red gold in the form of a coiling dragon.

Her dress had a fitted bodice and was made of dark red silk damask with a pattern of flowers and butterflies in raised gold thread.

Herjacket was lined with ermine. It was of a slate-blue stuff with woven insets in coloured silks.

Her under-skirt was of a turquoise-coloured imported silk crepe embroidered with flowers.

解析:1)此段以林黛玉的視角描寫王熙鳳在書中的第一次出場。穿衣飾品都極盡奢華,表明王熙鳳在賈府與眾不同的身份地位,同時也顯現(xiàn)了她的個性張揚。

2)“金絲八寶攢珠髻”是一種特殊的發(fā)髻,用金絲穿繞珍珠和鑲嵌八寶支撐的珠花發(fā)髻。“八寶”又稱“八吉祥”,是輪、螺、馓、蓋、花、罐、魚、腸八種實物的佩飾。楊譯為“Her gold-filigreetiara was set with jewels and pearls”,其中的“tiara”為女士冕狀頭飾置于頭頂,但實際上這一發(fā)髻應(yīng)該是盤在腦后的。因此霍譯“Her chignon was enclosed in a circlet of gold filigree and clustered pearls”更為貼切。

2)“豆綠宮絳雙衡比目玫瑰佩”,“宮絳”是一種系在腰間的懸掛飾物?!昂狻睘榕逵裆喜康男M杠,用以系飾物。“比目玫瑰佩”是一種用玫瑰色的玉片雕琢成的雙魚形的玉佩。楊譯大部分翻譯正確,但缺失了“比目”,“魚”的意象。這句霍克斯直接刪去不譯,對于不熟悉中國古代服飾的譯文讀者而言,霍譯更流暢,容易理解,但對于專門研究中國歷史或傳統(tǒng)服飾的讀者而言,文化價值有所缺失。

3)“窄褃襖”為緊身的襖子;“五彩緙絲石青銀鼠褂”中的“緙絲”,又稱“刻絲”,是一種經(jīng)彩緯顯現(xiàn)花紋,形成花紋邊界,具有如猶如雕琢縷刻的效果,且富雙面立體感的絲織工藝品,宋元以來一直是皇家御用織物之一,常有“一寸緙絲一寸金”和“織中之圣”的盛名。兩位譯者對于“襖”、“褂”的處理值得商榷,比如原文“褂”指的是婦女在棉襖和裙子外穿的一種長至膝蓋下方的寬大的長外衣,楊譯為“cape”指”斗篷、披肩”,雖有些類似但仍然相差甚遠。而霍譯的“jacket”指“短外衣”同樣不合適。

4)兩位譯者在著力再現(xiàn)服飾特點的同時,也注重原作的語言特色。曹雪芹對王熙鳳的初次登場的描寫,用詞十分講究,多用排比,句子對仗工整,讀起來朗朗上口。而兩位譯者也注重保留排比句式,如楊譯“Her gold-filigree tiara……”, “Her hair clasps……”, “Her necklet……”等,和霍譯 “Her chignon……”, “Her necklet……”, “Her dress……”等。